We're having such a good time!
The MacDonalds was a confusing one. Some signs were in Spanish, some in French. Which language do I speak here?! Even the guy at the counter spoke to me in both languages, whilst I spoke to him in just French.
The plan for the day was to visit Andorra. The night before
we’d driven along lots of b-roads to get to the MacDonalds (well, and to the
campsite – the campsite where we drove around and then left again. I’m letting it
go. Slowly. Promise!). Anyway, we couldn’t see all that much at night so it was
pretty awesome to wake up in the light of day smack bang in the middle of the
Pyrenees. Snow-capped mountains all around (that’s how the feeling goes). <3
We climbed the mountain, driving through valleys with trickly
streams cutting down through them, across boulders and rocks. There was a mix
of evergreens and leafless trees, with little clumps of fluff on the ends of
their branches (maybe insect nests?) and it was quite remarkable how each of
these mountain valleys seemed to be stuck in autumn, with browns, oranges, reds
and dark greens.
We drove up very hairpinny, winding roads, up through the
clouds and into pure, undisturbed snow. Just beautiful. Every now and again
you’d see the tracks of a small lone animal and when I looked up the side of
the mountain, pretty much adjacent to me, almost perpendicular to the van, I
could see wispy little drifts of snow tickling the side of the mountain as it
fell down along the glistening ground.
We stopped as we climbed and took a few photos every now and
again, stopping for a longer moment to watch the cable cars and skiers when we
found ourselves cutting through the middle of a ski resort.
Anf offered to drive us into the town of Andorra (Andorra la Vella - what is this language?!) but
I suggested we get on our way (at this point, we knew we’d be going to stop off
at my friend’s who lives in the middle of France, and I was eager to catch up
with her and her family). We had places to go, people to see.
Andorra is a principality, like Liechtenstein. I’ve been
enjoying the smaller things as we’ve gone through each country, like the number
plates. Melilla’s number plates are the same as Spanish ones (or they seem it
from the outside, without me understanding the composition to indicate the year/location).
Gibraltar’s numberplates are similar to the UK ones, but have a different
composition from those on the mainland, with all of them starting with G and
then a few numbers. OK. So they’re not the same as the UK ones really then.
They’re just yellow on the back and white on the front like UK ones, and the
font is the same. Anyway, what I’m getting at is that Andorra’s number plates
have a regal-looking red and yellow badge on them. Yeah. OK. That’s great,
Stace. Move on.
Little countries/exclaves/enclaves are also quite interesting
from a border perspective (what?! What do you mean the numberplates thing
wasn’t interesting?!). When we tried to get into Kaliningrad, we had to leave
Lithuania, enter no-people’s land (ahuh!) and then cross another border with
passports n ting to get into Russia. When we went to Gibraltar, it was the same
story: we had to leave Spain with passports (stampy mcstampy here), enter
no-people’s metre (it was so small it doesn’t merit a “land”) and then cross
another border (showing passports again) to get into UK territory.
Liechtenstein had nothing like this – there was no customs/border force space.
And many of the European countries we’ve
crossed haven’t had that (I gather from Tone that it used to exist, pre-EU).
Getting into Andorra was fine, but as we left, there were border police.
The gates were open, with the barriers up so we proceeded.
There was a line of officials all gassing away, slightly behind these barriers,
as the road opened up again and they were gesturing with their arms as they were
animatedly talking to one another. We looked to see if they were gesturing to
us and I think Anf understood they were waving us on. The lady at the end,
however, was not gassing away and told us to stop. At the eleventh hour.
Smiley doesn’t stop in a hurry and when I alerted to Anf
that the lady wanted us to stop, it took a while for us to come to a halt. In
that time, the lady had come running after us shouting “woah, Woah, WOAH!”. She
was not a happy bunny.
Up until this point, it wasn’t clear to me what language
they spoke in Andorra. There were “cedez le passage” signs that you’d find in
France, but other signs that weren’t quite French. I’d seen lots of things
about the Cerdanya region and perhaps this is kind of like Catalunia, or maybe
even part of Catalunia and the signs that weren’t wholly French were in Catalan
(which I don’t speak). In any case, when the lady chased us, I didn’t know in
which language to charm her.
“J’ai dit STOP.”, she says, quite grumpily.
“Yes, yes. Stop”, defends Tone.
“Oui mais stop là quoi. Pas labas.”, she says, thrusting her
finger in the air back towards where we’ve come, bringing it round quickly to
point at the ground in front of her, then throwing her hands up in the air. (I
explain to Tone she’s saying she said to stop back there, not here. He agrees
and said he was trying to but she shouted too late and her colleagues were
waving us on.)
Tensions are high.
“Ouvrez.”, she barks. (Being grumpy has to be part of
the training, I’m sure of it.)
We open the van and I chat, chat, chat away to her in
French.
She kept asking what we’ve bought, why we’ve come to
Andorra, where we’ve come from, do we have cigarettes, alcohol, etc. I
explained we just came to have a look and we were meant to go to Japan. We came
from Spain and are now going to Spain, we went to Africa, chat, chat, chat. I
unveil the whole story, Russia, war, ruble, chat, chat, chat. She seems bothered
by my chat, chat, chat. I continue.
“Vous ne fumez pas ?”., she interrupts my chat, chat, chat. Don’t you smoke? Lol. I explain our Anf has
got a little bit of a poorly lung. Smoking ain’t too much his fing no more, nor
mine.
“Allez.”, she says, flicking her wrist as she waves her arm
away from her, shooing us in a gesture. Anf ant barely ‘ad time to climb down
from his seat before the whole chaotic incident is over.
Crikey. That was all rarther pissy, rushed and unnecessarily
stressful.
We come down the mountain coolly, and head to France.
Direction: Toulouse.
We advance towards Toulouse in good time and agree we’ll continue up on towards Bourges, where my mate lives, in central France. I let her know we’ll get there about midnight and she explains she’ll leave the door open for us to let ourselves in when she goes to bed.
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